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Karen Taylor Quinn

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Anchovies, Butter, and Toast

Karen Quinn February 12, 2021

People often ask us for Seattle restaurant recommendations, and at the very top of my list for the last ten years and counting is the inimitable Spinasse. When I close my eyes I can picture the dining room: all natural wood, lace, and brass, with elegant glassware and refined but relaxed service, my favorite kind. The space is warm and inviting, small but never cramped, with a long and spacious bar that looks directly into the kitchen. They make a mean Negroni, a plate of life-altering Tajarin, and a heavenly uova con fonduta. And the first bite of the evening is always a tiny slice of toast, smeared with really good butter and topped with a glossy, oil-packed anchovy. It is the perfect bite: crunchy, salty, and rich—a tiny delight to usher you into an evening full of them.

I brought this lovely tradition home several years ago and my friend Dylan and I each now keep it in the regular rotation for dinner parties. It’s easy to whip up in a pinch and feels unique and special.

Simple sophistication.

This is fancy finger food at its finest, and ridiculously easy to make. The key is this: Use good butter. These little delights are made of three things, no more, no less. Since the baguette is toasted with olive oil, it doesn’t have to be a top-shelf baguette to work; likewise, the anchovies should be of high-quality, but nothing fancy. (I like Ortiz, which you can get at just about any grocery store.) The butter is what matters: stick to an unsalted, European-style butter like Plugrá or Kerry Gold (also available at most grocery stores) and you can’t go wrong.

Time: 20 minutes
Serves: Hors d’oeuvres for 4–10
Drink: Sparkling wine

INGREDIENTS
  • Half a baguette
  • Good, unsalted European-style butter, like Plugrá
  • One jar or tin of olive-oil packed anchovies
  • Olive oil, as needed
  • 1. Preheat oven to 400 F

    2. Slice your baguette
    Using a sharp and sturdy knife, cut your baguette into super-thin slices. Go as thin as you can—when toasted it should be more like a cracker than a slice of bread.

    Work ahead: You can cut up the baguette and freeze the slices in a gallon bag for later use. (This is especially helpful when you’re throwing a last-minute cocktail party.) When you’re ready to make them, no need to defrost—they’ll toast up just fine. Just pull them out of the freezer and continue on to step three.

    3. Spread pieces on a sheet pan; drizzle with olive oil
    Place all the slices on a sheet pan and drizzle or brush lightly with olive oil. You don’t need a ton here, just enough to crisp up the edges here and there. Try to keep the edges from touching so they’ll crisp up better.

    4. Toast in the oven until golden-brown
    This should take about 7–10 minutes, but start checking on them after 5. They can burn quickly because they’re so thin.

    5. Remove from oven; let cool

    6. Spread cold butter on each crostini; top with an anchovy
    Using fridge-temperature butter and working on a cool surface (i.e. not the hot sheen pan you just used), spread some butter on each piece of toast.

    Top each with an anchovy (or half an anchovy if you’re working with big ones). I like to pull each anchovy out of the jar or tin and wick the extra oil off with my fingers, so it’s not too gloopy on the toast.

    7. Arrange on a platter; reserve in the fridge
    Arrange them on a platter (or, if you’re doing a seated dinner, you can plate up each one on a tiny plate) and reserve in the fridge until you’re ready to use. The butter should be cool and opaque, not melted.

    8. Serve!
    Because all the ingredients involved are beige-ish, it’ll never look like a stunning colorful dish, and that is A-OK. As soon as people taste them they’ll know what’s up.

    In recipes Tags cocktail hour
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